Martin Margiela spring / summer 1983
Collection photograph, Martin Margiela, for the 1983 Golden Spindle competition. This collection won the award from the international jury chaired by Jean Paul Gaultier.
Following the humble success of the 1982 competition, the Golden Spindle 1983 entrance requirements were more challenging: designers had to create fifteen instead of five silhouettes, and make them more experimental and complex (‘trendy’) rather than ready-to-wear. This made it nearly impossible for anyone else besides the seven to participate. The 1983 competition moved to Brussels, garnered a lot of press attention and showed seven very strong, characteristic collections, featuring army uniforms, RAF-inspired clothes and silhouettes based on 1900 workwear by Dirk van Saene, who won the competition. Martin Margiela received an honourable mention from the foreign jury, presided over by Jean Paul Gaultier.